History, not euros, is Rome’s most important currency

By Michael Kinney

ROME, Italy– What can be said about Italy that hasn’t been written in countless books or shown in a multitude of movies. Everything from Earnest Hemingway’s “Farewell To Arms” to films such as “Under The Tuscan Sun” and “Angels & Demons” have made the European country the focus of their work.

But when I decided to take a two week trip to the Italy, I didn’t want any preconceived notions about the country to cloud my judgment. I wanted to see everything with fresh eyes and clear heart.

Unfortunately, that was impossible. Images of wondrous cities, amazing food and beautiful, passionate people filled my head on the 15-hour flight from Oklahoma City to Rome.

After 10 days (subtracting travel days and a weekend in Croatia), Italy lived up to the hype while falling well short of it at the same time.

While Italy feels big in books and movies, it’s not in real life. Its 116,347 square miles is smaller than Alaska, Texas, California, Montana and New Mexico. At various points, it is possible to drive from one coast to the other in under three hours. It takes longer to get from Lawton, Okla., to Tulsa, Okla.

Italy’s population of 60 million is almost three million less than California and Texas combined. But Italy isn’t about numbers and size. Its main currency is history.

From the moment you fly into its capital city of Rome, this is where most of the world’s civilization had its beginning. And city officials make sure visitors remember that.

Depending on your personalty, knowledge of the language, and patience level, there are several ways to see Rome. Super-adventurous types just need a map, a bus/train schedule and Google Translator, and they are set.

For the rest of us, there are several stop-and-go bus tours that you can ride all day. Most have about 15 to 20 stops where you can choose which particular site to spend hours exploring or none at all. Cost is around 20 to 30 euros. I chose a three-day pass because I had the time and knew there was a lot I wanted to see.

The first day alone, I spent the entire time at Vatican City. The Vatican itself is awe-inspiring in how big and majestic it is. While I was unable to see the Pope, it’s not unheard of for him to venture into the cathedral.

The Vatican Museum and St. Peter’s Basilica are stunning as well. But it’s the Sistine Chapel that is the center point on the tour. Security forbids photos from being taken inside the chapel, which Michelangelo immortalized in the early 1500s. Yet, that didn’t stop everyone from getting shots off at the immaculate ceiling. (I plead the 5^th).

For those who are truly interested in every aspect of Vatican City, you can hire personal tour guides who will detail each room and artifact. It’s an all-day affair, so wear comfortable shoes.

The rest of the city tour allows you to see such historical sites as The Pantheon, The Forum, The Basilica and The Colosseum. To walk on the exact same ground that gladiators, kings and soldiers walked can be a mind blowing experience.

Across the street from the Colosseum is a line of restaurants and cafes where you can eat or buy t-shirts, postcards and key chains. The same thing went for the Vatican. Making money is now the primary reason for Rome’s history.

Yet, when you are at one of those cafes, sitting outside  and eating pizza and tiramisu as you stare in amazement at how old the Colosseum is, you don’t worry about people trying to hustle money from tourist.

Despite that, it’s an experience anyone who has love for history, art and architecture must take in one day. When you hear the phrase, “They don’t make it like that any more,” they could easily be talking about 90 percent of Rome.

At night, Rome is a different animal altogether. It then turns into any metropolitan city that is packed with people. Parking is horrendous, groups of drunk, loud and boisterous people roam the streets and the night clubs stay open until the sun rises.

The food can be great, but it’s not better than your favorite restaurants in America. What does make it stand out is its freshness. Most of the dishes revolved around fresh seafood, and a meal consist of three courses. You normally will devour a bowl of mussels and clams and mushroom-covered bruschetta bread before you even get to the main course.

Also, when the waiter stares at you in amazement, mouth wide open and hands in the air, when you order fresh pineapple to eat with your calzone, don’t take offense to it. At least that’s what I had to tell myself.

Meals can last late into the night because conversations are an expected part of the dining experience.

Rome is also a great hub make day trips throughout the country from. Florence, Tuscany, Venice and Naples are all in driving distance or an easy train ride. You can also visit islands such as Capri, where you can inhale even more local history on the Mediterranean Sea.

Unfortunately, some aspects can’t be overlooked. Rules of the road don’t seem to apply in Italy. People drive how and where they want in cars that are no bigger than cardboard boxes for TVs.

Customer service in parts Italy leaves much to be desired. If you can’t speak the language, don’t expect much help from the locals. Rudeness seems to be a way of life. That’s especially true for the transit workers who couldn’t care less if you made your train or got onto the right one at all.

That just means you need to be extra prepared and have all information handy. The Italians don’t make it easy on you, but it’s not impossible to still enjoy your trip.

The day I was scheduled to leave the country, a 6.2 earthquake struck the region. More than 240 people were killed and several small towns outside Rome were decimated. Even parts of Rome itself was damaged.

Despite that, the planes from around the country kept on coming filled with tourist looking to walk in the footsteps of history. That will always make the country a popular location for a long time.

 

Croatia was nothing like I expected, and that was a good thing

Photo by Michael Kinney By Michael Kinney HVAR, Croatia — When traveling in Europe, one of the best features about doing so is the accessibility of other countries. While it’s a full day heft…

Source: Croatia was nothing like I expected, and that was a good thing

Croatia was nothing like I expected, and that was a good thing

Photo by Michael Kinney

By Michael Kinney

HVAR, Croatia — When traveling in Europe, one of the best features about doing so is the accessibility to other countries.

While it’s a full day heft getting from the United States across the Ocean, once there, you can go almost anywhere that is new and interesting.

My first weekend in Europe, four friends and I decided to hit up Yacht Week at the Island of Hvar in Croatia.

Before this past week, my only knowledge of Croatia was that it was country that had been ravaged by war and was the home of former NBA player Drazen Petrovic. So it didn’t sound all that appealing to me.

The group tried to ease my apprehensions by telling me Hvar is the new Ibiza in Spain, which is where the rich and famous go to unwind. After an hour flight from Rome to Split, Croatia, I was quickly impressed by the beautiful scenery and landscape.

Split is the second largest city in Croatia and has become a tourist hub. The city provides free buses downtown for people to do shopping. I wish all major U.S. cities would do that.

After one look at the historic Jupiter Temple and the buildings, you realize the town has seen much of Europe’s amazing and bloody history. Split is also where some scenes from the hit TV show “Game of Thrones” is filmed.

We were only in Split a short minute before jumping on a catamaran (big boat) to head to Hvar. I should have known we were running with a different crowd when I started seeing yachts off all sizes and country origins as we pulled into port. One gentleman had three huge yachts stationed along the coast just because he could, according to one of our guides.

 The organizers of The Yacht Week described the event as “seven days of sailing to hidden splendors most landlubbers couldn’t get to, experiencing exclusive events and, the best part, being completely surrounded by an equal balance of adventure-seeking guys and girls from around the world.”

I was sold.

As soon as I departed the boat, I was struck by just how clean and picturesque Hvar was. The houses that sit on the cost of the Adriatic Sea have an understated ‘Old Man and the Sea’ feel.

A 16th century Napoleon fortress overlooks the port city and provides amazing views for those courageous enough to climb the long winding stair path to the top of the hill. It’s well worth the extra exertion once you get a look from the top.

But as ancient of a feel as castle and merchants gave off, Havr is a country trying come into the modern age to fit its clientele – with Sports Bars and Wi-Fi spots easily found. Each time I told a Croatian resident I was from Oklahoma, the first words out of their mouth was Kevin Durant. That always led to a discussion on why he left to go to Golden State, to which I had no good answer for them.

One thing that brings wealthy tycoons and college students alike flocking to the small island every summer is the late night party scene. The square in the middle of the town has several good clubs with good music blaring out the doors beckoning passerby’s to come in.

But it was the Carpe Dien Beach Club that was on the lips of local residents and frequent visitors when asked where was the best night spot to hit. It is a mix of spring break in Daytona and bottle service clubs in Miami.

Revelers have to take a 20-minute boat ride to an island just off the coast of Hvar to get to Carpe. It doesn’t get really going until after 1 a.m. and doesn’t close until 6 a.m. But for those who have the stamina and willpower to make it to closing, with the sun coming out at 5:30 a.m. it makes for a nice walk back to the hotel in broad daylight.

The first thing our group did once we reached town was to hire a boat and a driver for a six-hour tour of the islands and coves that surround Hvar. Instead of going with a tourist company, we chose an independent operator. That means they follow their own rules like ask if it was OK for them to smoke a couple of joints while our crew went swimming.

Through some ferocious waves that made me feel like I had fought a young Mike Tyson, the two brothers took us to normal tourist sites like the Blue Grotto and the Green Cove. But they also found us secluded beaches to do some snorkeling and swimming in the clear blue waters of the Adriatic Sea.

We used the same duo on back-to-back days and the hidden gems they found us never failed. One of the two best spots was lunch at a beach located in an out of the way cove. Overlooking the cove and the beach, with the wind slightly blowing off the sea, it was a perfect spot for a bowl of steamed mussels and assorted fish. It was so quaint and relaxing, you were almost forced to take a nap on the padded benches.

This beach was also where I learned that every beach in Europe is pretty much a nude beach. I will just say Europeans are not ashamed to bear it all. No matter what age or fitness level.

The second best spot on Hvar was a very popular establishment called the Tree House. The cove was filled with boats and yachts of all sizes the Sunday afternoon we visited. There was a club atmosphere taking place as millionaires and some billionaires mingled with tourists and local residents with club music coming out from the speakers and spreading throughout the cove.

They were two totally different experiences. One was quiet, relaxing and understated. The other was overboard, ostentatious and pure new century.  But both best summed up what Croatia is all about these days.

Michael Kinney is a Freelance Writer. He can  be reached through Eyeamtruth.com